"Bolo Durga Mai ki, Joy" - a cry which perfectly resonates with Durga Puja in Calcutta. Sound of dhaks playing in background is a sheer joy and pleasing to the ears.
Durga Puja to Calcutta is what Ganesh Chaturthi is to Mumbai, Dusshera to Delhi and Holi to Vrindavan. It's an inseparable part of our lives out here. This 10-day festival kicks in the most celebrated time of the year in Calcutta. This is the best time to be in Calcutta, to feel the vibes of this city and get immersed in its charm. Out here, Durga Puja involves worship of Goddess Parvati in form of Goddess Durga along with Goddess Lakshmi & Saraswati, Lord Kartikeya and Ganesh. This festival marks the victory of Goddess Durga over evil Mahishasura.
What sets apart this celebration is the creativity involved in decoration of pandals (temporary structures); streets lit up with colorful lights and the passion of Bengalis (natives of Bengal) for pandal hopping and the soulful music played all around the streets and societies (music simply adds to the entire ambience). People save the entire year to purchase new clothes for the entire family - one each for five days from Shasthi to Dashmi. There is a special sale across shops of all kinds known as Pujo Sale. Planning for Durga Puja typically start three-four months prior to the festival with locals gathering for their most treasured part of the day - an adda session with a cup of tea. Level of seriousness involved in entire planning can be imagined by virtue of a committee being formed for each pandal association. Financing for the entire project is sourced from local household donations and sponsors from nearby business houses. A donation for Pujo is something everyone would surely account for in their annual budget. Across city, every service provider (literally everyone) would ask for bakshees (tip/gratuity) for this festive season and you just can't refuse it out of love or at times force as well.
Structural design and theme typically revolves around a recent social issue/event from the country/world with each pandal trying to pass on a new message through art. There is a sense of pride and competition involved in each pada (locality) and organizers on who has managed to make most visitors remain wonderstruck by the beauty of their pandal design and idol. Such is the crowd pull of some localities that organizers have to issue VIP passes for its local residents and esteemed guests. The only other option would be to otherwise stand in long queues beating the scorching sun. But trust me, standing in these queues are too much fun with friends. People strictly follow the queue and any attempt to break the queue would be dealt with anger by others saying - "Are dada, line bhanglen keno? Amrao toh darie achi, aapnin pehcheno jaan" (Oh Uncle, why are you breaking the line? We are also standing here for long, please go back in the queue). Throughout the year, city residents may express their displeasure at traffic police in handling the city traffic as they seem to reserve their best services for Durga Puja. There is a proper city guide map released by the government highlighting pandals in each location along with suggested routes, metro rail timings and emergency helpline numbers.
When one admires and praises the think tank behind pandal design, we tend to only appreciate the organizers. However, the unsung heroes of this wonder are the artisans. Artisans of Kumartuli are the most famed ones in clay idol making and their craftmanship is widely appreciated. I believe in the saying of - idols speaking to you. Artisans out here literally have magic in their hands and its not surprising to hear someone remarking - Maa mukhta ki sundor! Jeno kotha bolche (Goddess's face is so beautiful, as if it's saying something).
My earliest memories of pandal hopping is that of Mamaji (maternal uncle) taking all his nieces and nephews on a pandal hopping spree form early noon to late evening followed by a delicious dinner. We used to keep a count of each pandal seen (at times debate on the number as we used to forget a few) and then proudly go back home and tell our parents of seeing 10x pandals during the day. However, the most emotional one used to be the annual pandal hopping with our household helper. Didi (as we fondly called her), was elder than even our parents. Pujas was the only time of the year when she used to sport a new saree. In an all white and violet stripes saree, she used to take us out for a day to nearby pandals on her own money (yes, you heard it right). Although she had some difficulty in walking, but during Pujas she used to walk with us all the way. We four brothers and sisters and Didi - God, such beautiful were those days and moments. We used to first offer our worship to the deity and then jump on to the rides, swings and candy shops. During high school & college days, pandal hopping used to start late evening around 7-8pm and then continue till around 2-3am, all across walking. We tried covering the city basis the four directions - north, south, east and west across four different days. Call it the enthusiasm or adrenaline rush, looking back at those late night hopping still amazes me.
Schools, colleges are shut for a month-long festival while offices are mandatorily closed for at least 4 days starting from Saptami (seventh-day). Although my Bengali friends in other cities of India/world don't get official paid leaves, but coming home during this time of the year is mandatory for them - 'Aei bar Pujo ae badi jabo'. People are out each day to cover each zone one by one, patiently waiting in queues with family, friends and very special ones. Observing nicely, one can spot two lovebirds quietly sharing an ice gola. Such is the density of crowd, you ought to be very unlucky to be still caught by parents/friends with your special one. Delicious food await outside each pandal - kathi rolls, chow mein, noodles, sweets, jhal muri, chats, biryani etc etc. Its a family tradition for many to welcome the Goddess home and perform all the rituals based on scriptures and legacy in their famed baris (heritage homes). Friends and relatives are welcomed to a host of exquisite delicacies and rituals.
On Vijaya Dashmi (tenth & last day), is a day full of emotions for everyone. Happily people are first involved in Sindoor Khela - married women smear sindoor (vermilion) on Goddess and each other wishing for a blissful married life (click on Sindoor Khela for a video). Dhunichi nach is another mesmerizing ritual of this festival involving a dance with dhunuchi on dried coconuts with drummer playing dhaks. By evening, its time to bid farewell to Maa with teary eyes. People pray with folded hands "Maa aager bochor, joldi aashben" (come quickly next year). A huge procession is then carried out as Maa is bid farewell from earth to her heavenly abode. Vehicles loaded with loudspeakers play latest chartbusters as devotees dance their heart out to something called as 'Visjarjan dance'. As per traditions, as soon as the idol is immersed in River Ganga, a Neelkanth (Indian Roller) is released into air signalling a message to Lord Shiva that Maa has commenced her journey back to Kailash.
Although there are 1000s of pandals across the city, below is a list of few most famous ones which manage to pull crowds like nothing else (randomly):
a) Shreebhumi, Lake Town
b) Md. Ali Park, M.G. Road
c) Maddox Square, Ballygunge
d) College Square
e) Jodhpur Park
f) Ekdalia Evergreen
g) Salt Lake FD Block
h) Chetla
i) Kumartuli Park
j) Santosh Mitra Square
It's sheer bad luck for me that despite being in Calcutta during Durga Puja after 5 years, I am still unable to venture out and go on a pandal hopping because of this pandemic. Hopefully, Maa will bless us all and call me back next year in time for celebrations. Do enjoy few clicks and video Durga Puja over the years (thanks to my friend Abhishek and sister for amazing pictures and video).
